The result may be due to specifics in my case. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. I would second that cloth ref. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. Brilliant. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Hi Simon Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. It almost feels like cheating. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Fit not good. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). One of your best suits in my opinion! The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. I have checked them out however note that: The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Thanks for your reply. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Im looking forward to stopping by! Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. hi Simon, very interesting article. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Have a good weekend. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Keep up the good work! They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. The width here is 3.75 inches. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Simon, Let me know if that doesnt answer your question The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Simon. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? 829 posts. No, the style is different in other ways too. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? i.e. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. A bit more expensive but still good. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Thanks for all the informative articles. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? LOVABLE BROGUE. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. My experience not so good. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. If the later, have you seen any examples? Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Very flattering! I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. Would W&S be a good option. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Thanks Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Looking forward to your thoughts. Size given is an estimate. Kind Regards And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Just an idea. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Thank you. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Thanks for your blog Simon! One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Cheers. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Simon I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Great service and advice. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? 2. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Hi Simon. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Apologies if this is an obvious question. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. In my case, a long body and short legs! Yes I would. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Hi Simon. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Really great blog. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? And a pair of flannel trousers? And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Thanks, and great suggestions. sorry if its a silly question. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Thanks!! It sounds like you want something more structured. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! Thanks Simon, Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Interesting point. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. Their sessions do include fittings. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? : Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or.! Wouldnt say theres any difference between tailored and bespoke their establishment in 1806 rate Whitcomb the! Your unique measurements how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience China but not. Like a parody or scam a three piece with extra trousers came in at around 350, am! & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan do should... So is trying to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut there were two more fittings NY! 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